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Locally Carei: Earthy trout is versatile fish

By Joe Carei for The 5 min read
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When I get a text from my friend Jeff, it is usually a reminder to eat very local.

Whether it is rabbit, whitetail offal or just morels, he usually brings me back to earth, literally.

But, this week, his request was to provide recipes for those who can run a trout line. Trout is a versatile fish that is cooked on a campfire in the ruddy outdoors and served on the finest china in the best restaurants.

The flavor of trout is delicate and sometimes earthy. It is a very close relative of salmon and shares its texture and mouth feel. It is very easy to cook and accommodates many enhancements, easily absorbing the flavors you introduce to it. Most folks like to prepare the simplest way by pan searing or grilling. But, it also can be stuffed, baked, fried, roasted, pickled and best of all, smoked.

When fishing for trout, remember that fat content and activity affect the flavor. So a brook or stream trout will have more flavor than that of a lake trout, as it works more. And of course, much more than a farm raised trout. Also, the earlier in the season you get your trout, the more fat it will have and the better it tastes. As it gets warmer, the fat will be reduced. There is a hitch here, if you go to a stocked lake; more than likely it will be stocked with farm raised trout.

Not only are trout delicious, they are a Superfood. Trout are an excellent source of protein, niacin, vitamin B12, and omega 3 fatty acids. Eating trout has been found to improve your immune system. Omega 3 fatty acids help reduce the risk of heart disease and increase coronary health. It is a great source of protein. Trout has the same protein content as beef and much more than chicken.

The number one complaint of trout is the bones. There are several ways to remove the bones, and they all require patience. The easiest way is to cook the trout and then pull the bones out, and if done right you can remove the backbone and everything else will come with it. When you debone the fish, you will be left with the pin bones in. If you wish to remove before cooking, you can use tweezers or a pair of small needle nose pliers. The bones will be located a line in the upper 1/3 of the fish. Pull towards the head. This process will take about 5 minutes. If you are good with a knife, you can cut out the bones. Find the bone line and cut in a V-shape, along the side of the bones. The less skilled you are, the more meat you will sacrifice.

If you are fishing to eat, treat your trout right. You want to field dress it as soon as you can, be careful to not puncture the bile sac. Keep it on ice and below 40 degrees. The fat in the fish will start to break down if not kept cold after it passes. Trout tastes best the fresher it is. Properly stored it will be good for up to a week. In a freezer it will maintain its good taste for about 6 months, although it will be edible long after that.

The top cooking trout debate is skin on or skin off. The skin contains a lot of the oils therefore full of flavor. If you wish a skinless filet, I would suggest peeling the skin off after cooking. Once cooked, it is removed very easily, so it’s really a no brainer.

Trout ala Meuniere (Pan-seared trout)

2 small trout butterflied

Salt and pepper

Flour for dredging

2 tablespoons oil

¼ cup butter

1 lemon cut in half

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Season trout with salt and pepper and then dredge in flour, shake off excess. Heat oil in large pan until oil shimmers. Carefully place trout in pan, flesh side down. Sear for 3-4 minutes and then flip and then sear skin side until desired crispiness. Place trout on plate. Toss butter in hot pan and cook, squeeze in lemon juice and add parsley. Pour over fish…serve.

Lemon- and ramp-stuffed trout

One large trout (2lbs) or 3 smaller trout

1 lemon

5-6 ramps

1 cup of homemade fresh breadcrumbs

3 tablespoons butter

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

Chop ramps and sweat with 2 tablespoons butter. Once soft, toss with breadcrumbs. Zest the lemon and add to mix. Cut skin off of lemon and section out the lemonn. Add to stuffing with dill. Brush the trout with butter and season with salt and pepper. Stuff trout and bake at 400 degrees for @ 20 minutes.

Remove the skin and cut fruit from in between membranes.

Bacon-and-trout spread

½ pound trout cooked or smoked

2 slices bacon

½ cup softened cream cheese

2 tablespoons yogurt or sour cream

1 teaspoon chopped chives

½ teaspoon pepper

Render bacon until crispy. Drain and put into a mixing bowl. Add cream cheese, yogurt, chives and pepper and blend. Break up trout, checking for bones, add to bowl and mix to desired consistency.

Pickled trout

One pound trout

3/4 cup water

1 bay leaf

1 large clove garlic, coarsely chopped

10 peppercorns tablespoon chopped fresh dill or teaspoon dry

¼ cup sugar

¾ cup vinegar

1 onion (red looks nicer)

Check trout for bones, cut into 1 inch pieces.

Heat water with bay leave, garlic, peppercorns, dill and sugar. Bring to boil to dissolve sugar. Turn off heat and add vinegar. Thinly cut onion into rings In quart canning jarn, alternately layer trout, onion and pickling liquid. Refrigerate. Will be ready in 72 hours.

You can do this in a bowl, stirring every 12 hours.

Chef Joe Carei has been an award-winning chef in Fayette County nearly half of his life. The former PA Restaurateur of the Year now operates Ellie Mae’s Catering and Food Clubs. He can be reached at joe@elliemaescatering .com.

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