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Appalachian dinner fare celebrated at historic landmark

By Patty Yauger pyauger@heraldstandard.Com 6 min read
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Kelly Tunney | Herald-Standard

Executive Chef Joshua Diehl adds spinach to chicken and dumplings with seared gnocchi and chicken au jus as he prepares a main course for the Appalachian dinner event.

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Antique light fixtures glow inside the Inne at Watson's Choice barn as guests enjoy an Appalachian dinner.

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Executive Chef Joshua Diehl prepares a Chow Chow salad with blackjack peppercorn cheese and apple fennel vinaigrette.

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Executive Chef Joshua Diehl adds sage leaves to chicken and dumplings with seared gnocchi and chicken au jus.

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Executive Chef Joshua Diehl's chicken and dumplings with seared gnocchi and chicken au jus.

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A sample meal including chicken and dumplings with seared gnocchi, chow chow salad with apple fennel vinaigrette, and roasted pumpkin and corn soup, prepared by Dr. McCarthy's Kitchen Executive Chef Joshua Diehl.

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The Inne at Watson's Choice barn served as the dining room for the Appalachian dinner.

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The Springtime Hill Bluegrass Band entertain guests at the Appalachian dinner hosted by gather Inne at Watson's Choice owners, Bill and Nancy Ross.

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Executive Chef Joshua Diehl deconstructed traditional Appalachian recipes and used local, seasonal ingredients for an Appalachian dinner at the Inne at Watson's Choice.

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Executive Chef Joshua Diehl's Chow Chow salad with blackjack peppercorn cheese and apple fennel vinaigrette.

As the Europeans made their way to the new world, many where drawn to what would become known as the Appalachian region.

Stretching from the southern tier of New York through western Pennsylvania and West Virginia and south into Alabama and Mississippi, the area boasts more than 25 million residents.

The Native Americans first inhabited the region, honing their skills as hunters and gatherers. Their abilities were later shared with those coming from Scotland, Ireland and Germany to find work and raise their families.

The cultures blended and produced many food recipes used today by those preparing dinner at home or by the chef at the local restaurant.

Corn, beans and potatoes were grown along with fruit, greens and onions. Any excess from the summer gardens were canned and stored for use in the winter months.

Cows, pigs and chickens were raised to complete the dinner fare with much of the beef, pork and poultry cured for later use.

Meals were simple and homemade. Squirrel or venison were paired with something from the garden. Dried apple stack cake was a sweet end to the dinner.

There was nothing fast about an Appalachian meal as the preparation became a focal point for families and friends and led to conversation and laughter as they awaited the completion of the dinner.

The region and its food were recently recognized by about 30 guests that had gathered at the Inne at Watson’s Choice in McClellandtown to experience a flavorful Appalachian-style dinner.

Dr. McCarthy’s Kitchen executive chef Joshua Diehl was tasked by the inn’s owners, Bill and Nancy Ross, to prepare the evening fare that included homegrown and locally-produced ingredients.

“We work as much as possible with local farmers and vendors,” said Diehl. “We try to support everyone around us.”

The menu for the autumn evening was based on Diehl’s time spent in the kitchen at home while growing up, at culinary school and his recent experiences at area restaurants.

“My mother loved shopping at markets in the mountains and at the Amish stores,” he said, adding that their home meals consisted of those locally produced vegetables and fruits. “(The menu foods) are something I’ve eaten all my life with maybe a little twist.”

The Chow Chow salad for the evening event combined late year greens and a pickled vegetable medley.

“The Chow Chow is a combination of all the leftover vegetables from the harvest,” said Deihl. “Usually, the foundation is green beans and lima beans, but corn and celery can be added to give it different flavors.”

Mixed with kale and spinach, and topped with an apple vinegar vinaigrette and a grated, spicy cheese, the pickled vegetables gave the dinner guests one more opportunity to enjoy the summer garden produce.

Diehl said that the move from fast food to the Appalachian farm-to-table cuisine is becoming popular as diners are more health conscious and opting for fresh food instead of greasy hamburgers and fries.

“People want good food,” he said. “We think of it as guiltless gourmet.”

The bowls of the roasted pumpkin and corn soup were emptied quickly by the Watson’s Choice guests.

Similar to the dinner courses to follow, the soup was made from scratch using farm grown pumpkins and corn.

While some pumpkin soup recipes include heavy cream that result in higher calories, Deihl said that his is more calorie frugal, but flavor intensive.

“It still has the roasted pumpkin and corn taste, and allows you to eat more because it doesn’t have all the fat,” he said.

Diehl said that while chicken and biscuits is a staple on most Pennsylvania restaurant menus, his “twist” eliminates the heavy gravy and biscuits while adding a lighter potato and noodle.

“The chicken is so flavorful that you don’t miss the gravy or biscuit, but it is still the same comfort food that your grandmother made,” he said.

Similar to the Appalachian residents of the early days, Diehl also looked to the waterways for fresh trout for the dinner menu.

Fresh beans were again used to top the brown-buttered fish that was locally raised.

“It is a celebration of everything that is in this area,” said Deihl of the menu ingredients. “We’re very fortunate to have such resources that allow for the production of quality beef, poultry and vegetables.”

As the harvest moon rose in the sky over the 1800-circa built barn where the dinner was served, the guests were treated to a Dutch apple pie dessert that also had its beginnings on a local farm.

“Every Monday, my daughters and I would go to the Christian Klay winery and pick apples on their farm,” said Diehl, of the foundation of the dessert offering. “In addition to growing their wonderful grapes, they also grow delicious apples.”

As the gold and red leaves from the surrounding trees fell slowly onto the historic landmark and music of the Springtime Hill Bluegrass Band filled the cool evening air, the guests enjoyed the final course and reminisced how it reminded them of their grandmother’s cooking.

“It’s all about fresh food,” said Diehl. “I’ve taken 100 year old recipes that likely had their origins in the Appalachian mountains and added my own twist.

“Good food combined with good company, makes it a celebration.”

Roasted Pumpkin and Corn Soup

Ingredients:

1 Medium Sized Pumpkin

6 Carrots

2 White Onions

8 Cloves of Garlic

3 Ears of Corn

1 Gallon Vegetable Stock

1 cup Dark Brown Sugar

2 T Curry Powder

1 tsp. Cumin

1 tsp. Coriander

1/4 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Salt to Taste

Method:

Oil Pumpkin, Onions, Garlic, Carrots, and Cut Corn (Keep Corn Separate) with EVOO. Roast in oven @ 400 degrees until tender. Remove Corn from oven when golden brown and set aside. Scoop out flesh of

pumpkin. Heat vegetable stock and add pumpkin, garlic, carrots, and onions (including spices) to pot.

Puree and add Roasted Corn, Season with salt to taste. Let simmer for one-half hour and serve.

Chow Chow Salad:

Pickling Liquid:

1 qt Apple Cider Vinegar

1.5 Cups Brown Sugar

2T Kosher Salt

4 T Your Favorite Spices!

Method:

Bring all ingredients to a boil, and pour over fresh garden veggies of your choice.

Apple Fennel Vinaigrette

2 Qts. Vegetable Oil

2 tsp. Dijon Mustard

1 Cup Apple Cider

1 Cup Apple Cider Vinegar

1/2 Shot Pernod

1/2 Shot Apple Pucker

One Pinch of Sugar and Salt Respectively

Method:

Whisk together all non-oil ingredients. When well incorporated, slowly drizzle oil while whisking rapidly.

Toss together fall greens (Kale, Spinach, etc.) with your pickled veggies, apple vinaigrette, fresh veggies, apple slices, and enjoy!

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