Apr 7, 2002 By The Culinary Institute Of America For Ap Weekly Features 5 min read

HYDE PARK, N.Y. (AP) – Fat is undoubtedly a hot button in healthy cooking. In recent years, so much attention has been focused on fat that many people have come to regard it as the ultimate dietary villain. However, easy ways to reduce fat in recipes while saving flavor are featured in the Culinary Institute of America’s “The Professional Chef’s Techniques of Healthy Cooking” (Wiley, 2000 second edition, $59.95).

Many traditional recipes call for amounts of added fat that are not functionally necessary. Too much fat can actually mask the flavor of other ingredients and prevent a dish reaching its full flavor potential.

Try experimenting with your favorite recipes by reducing the fat in incremental steps to determine how much fat is necessary to please your palate.

A variety of low-fat and fat-free ingredients can be used to replace fat. For example, the cream cheese in a cheesecake can be successfully replaced with a combination of reduced-fat cream cheese, nonfat yogurt drained of its whey, and pureed low-fat cottage and ricotta cheeses.

A word of warning: Some nonfat dairy products are unsuitable for cooking and baking because they break down when subjected to high heat. Stick to reduced-fat ingredients for cooking and baking.

The use of evaporated skim milk is a good way to simulate the effect of cream in many applications because of its similar color, flavor and viscosity. In recipes calling for eggs, several of the egg yolks can often be omitted or a commercial egg substitute may be used.

Curdling is a common pitfall that may occur when you replace whole-milk products with reduced-fat versions. In the reduced-fat version, there is often not enough fat to inhibit protein coagulation, and as a result undesirable curds form. The curdling effect can usually be avoided by adding the reduced-fat product at the last possible minute and using gentle heat.

Alternatively, try mixing a small amount of starch, such as cornstarch or flour, into the dairy product before it is added. The starch granules swell and block the proteins from coagulating, in much the same way as the fat would have done.

Replacing fat in baked goods can be tricky because of the complex physical and chemical changes that take place during the baking process.

Effective methods of reducing fat in baked goods are to use a small amount of cooking spray, a silicone baking mat or parchment paper to line your pan, rather than butter, oil or shortening.

Moistening a paper towel with oil and then lightly wiping the pan is another successful fat reduction technique.

When you replace fat in batters and doughs, it is important to consider its function before you go ahead.

Fruit purees such as applesauce, mashed bananas, prune puree or other fruits with high pectin and sugar levels work well when used to replace up to 75 percent of the fat in some recipes.

Meringue can be used to provide volume in cake and souffle batters. When a soft cooked meringue is folded together with a small amount of whipped heavy cream, the result makes a good substitute for full-fat whipped cream.

(Note: There are two types of cooked meringues you can use this way. One is made when egg whites are beaten in the top of a double boiler; the second is made when sugar that has been cooked to the soft ball stage is streamed into egg whites as they are beaten. Both methods “cook” the egg whites. Folding in egg whites that have not been treated in either of these two methods will not work.)

When buttermilk, which is naturally low in fat, is substituted for whole milk or cream in a baking recipe, it adds a pleasant tang to the finished product. Its extra acidity aids in leavening and helps to create a more tender product.

Finally, a word of advice: Don’t become discouraged if your first try at a reduced-fat baked item does not work out as expected. It may take many tries and several different approaches before you are satisfied with your results.

Perseverance, patience and creativity are keys to success!

Preparing a low-fat dessert that’s still delicious can be a challenge. The following chocolate sponge cake recipe has a rich chocolate flavor with only 2.5 grams of fat per serving. You can serve it with fresh berries for a satisfying, delicious and guilt-free finale to your next dinner party.

CHOCOLATE SPONGE CAKE

Vegetable oil spray, as needed

11/2 cups cake flour

1/2 cup cocoa powder

1 teaspoon baking powder

15 egg whites

1 and 1/3 cups powdered sugar, sifted

1 teaspoon cream of tartar

2 tablespoons melted butter

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Lightly spray a 10-inch tube or springform cake pan with vegetable oil, dust with 1 tablespoon of the flour, and line with baking paper.

Combine the remaining flour, cocoa and baking powder. Sift twice. Whip egg whites until thick and foamy. Gradually incorporate sugar and cream of tartar and continue beating to medium-stiff peaks (egg whites will stick to whisk or beaters). Gently fold the flour mixture into beaten egg whites. Gently fold in butter and vanilla.

Pour batter into prepared cake pan. Bake in a 325 F oven until cake begins to pull away from the sides of pan, about 30 minutes. Cool completely before removing from pan by inverting and peel away the baking paper.

Serving suggestion: Slices of cake can be warmed, or grilled briefly, and served with fresh berries and nonfat whipped topping, or sprinkled with powdered sugar.

Makes one 10-inch cake, with 16 servings.

Nutritional information per serving: 150 cal., 5 g pro., 29 g carbo., 2.5 g fat, 5 mg chol., 115 mg sodium.

(Recipe adapted from “The Professional Chef’s Techniques of Healthy Cooking,” Wiley, 2000, second edition, $59.95.)