Apr 7, 2002 By J.M. Hirsch Associated Press Writer 4 min read

CONCORD, N.H. (AP) – After months of heavy, warming foods such as casseroles and stews, the advent of spring means we can lighten the load and work greener, cooler produce into what we eat. You can do it gradually. Use this time of still-limited fresh vegetables as an excuse to toss together dishes that celebrate the contrast of warm and cool – like the spring days, as they come and go.

For a great seasonal meal that can be on the table in about 10 minutes, try a plate of hot and cold nachos.

Spread corn tortilla chips over a plate or platter. Layer them with shredded lettuce, chopped tomatoes and peppers. In a small saucepan, heat a can of navy or vegetarian baked beans and spread over the vegetables. Finish with dollops of cold salsa.

For a cheesy version, don’t top the platter of nachos with cheese – that will require heating, which will wilt the lettuce and ruin the hot-cold contrast. Instead, add shredded cheese to the beans as they heat and stir frequently.

Or try a fresh and fruity twist on pizza. Lightly brush a basic raw pizza crust with corn oil.

Arrange thin slices of apples, pears and strawberries over the dough. Brush the fruit with more corn oil, then sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon.

Bake the pizza at 350 F for about 15 minutes, or until the crust is crispy on the bottom.

Top the pizza with cool, fresh fruit such as pineapple pieces, sliced grapes or kiwi slices, then dust with powdered sugar.

For a spicier take on the hot and cold pizza, coat an unbaked pizza crust with olive oil and red pepper flakes. Bake until crispy on the bottom and lightly golden on the edges, about 10 minutes.

While the crust bakes, saute diced onions and red and green bell peppers in olive oil and freshly ground black pepper until the peppers are tender. In a medium bowl, toss diced tomatoes, chopped scallions and diced prepared artichoke hearts (canned or marinated) with salt.

When the crust is finished, top with the onion and pepper mixture. Drain the tomato mixture in a mesh strainer then add to pizza. Finish with chopped fresh parsley and basil leaves.

For another great spring dish, try Warm Potato, Onion and Caper Salad from Lidia Matticchio Bastianich’s “Lidia’s Italian-American Kitchen” (Knopf, 2001, $35).

This warm salad is great served on a bed of crisp greens. For a twist, toss it with cooked, chilled bowtie pasta and olive oil.

Bastianich suggests trying the salad as it was traditionally made, without vinegar. But people who find the capers don’t provide enough zing should sprinkle it lightly with vinegar and toss well before serving, she writes.

WARM POTATO, ONION AND CAPER SALAD

(Preparation time 50 minutes)

1 pound Idaho or Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed but not peeled

1 small red onion, sliced thin

1/3 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

1/4 to 1/3 cup tiny capers, drained

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt (preferably sea salt)

Cracked or coarsely ground black pepper

Several teaspoons red-wine vinegar (optional)

Place the potatoes in a medium saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by about 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat slightly to a gentle boil. Cook until the potatoes are tender, about 20 to 35 minutes.

Drain the potatoes and let them stand until cool enough to handle, but still quite warm.

Cut the potatoes into 1/2-inch slices and set them in a serving bowl. Scatter the onion, parsley and capers over the potatoes, then drizzle everything with the olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Toss gently until all ingredients are well mixed. If desired, add vinegar and toss again. Serve immediately.

Makes 6 servings.

(Warm Potato, Onion and Caper Salad is taken from Lidia Matticchio Bastianich’s “Lidia’s Italian-American Kitchen,” Knopf, 2001, $35.)