Mar 1, 2019 By Olivia Serdy for The 4 min read

I still remember an email that went around to the newsroom five years ago, asking us who’d like to attend and write a story about an upcoming wild game dinner.

Not one to shy away from anything outdoors, I jumped at the chance. I also remember that the menu that year included raccoon — which turned out to be one of my favorites of the night.

I didn’t know at the time that it would be a tradition that would continue even after my official tenure at the newspaper, but it has become one that I’ve looked forward to each year.

This year was no different, as my husband Jake and I made the trek from our new home in Washington to attend their 39th annual wild game dinner Saturday.

In the company of around 40 other outdoorsmen, they began the night at the Stone House like many others — giving credit where credit is due to the hunters, trappers and anglers who donated some of their harvest to the evening’s feast.

Laughs and gratitude were shared as they called out those who brought trout, venison, quail, pheasant and squirrel.

The nine course meal started on a high note with a delicious crispy fried quail with sweet thai chili sauce — by far our favorite. The crunch and tang were perfect compliments to the game bird. I was also a fan of the next course of venison sliders with blue cheese, caramelized onions and buffalo sauce. It was a pleasing combo of sweet, tangy and savory, and definitely gave life to what might normally be a gamey, dry burger.

Other stellar courses included tasty bacon wrapped pheasant breast with gumbo sauce and rice, bacon wrapped stuffed trout with a fragrant lemon-thyme sauce, venison tenderloin medallions with rich tarheel mustard, and smoked venison meatloaf with candied carrots.

We were particularly intrigued by the pan fried venison steaks with coffee gravy, the latter of which I’d never heard of before. I had my doubts, but was pleasantly surprised by the bitter coffee tang that was a delectable choice with mashed potatoes and venison. It’s a gravy that I’m looking forward to trying on my own with future meals.

And a wild game dinner wouldn’t be complete without something a little off the wall. Other years, those interesting meats have included raccoon, bobcat, wild boar and even those dreaded (but tasty) 17-year-cicadas.

This year, it was a rich, tasty sausage gravy and biscuits with expertly prepared pan fried squirrel. The meaty back legs were sweet and tasted much like the savory dark meat on a chicken, as a fellow outdoorsman and game dinner attendee noted.

All in all, it was a thoroughly enjoyable evening, not only for the impressive feast, but for the company.

I’ve said it several times before, but it’s an honor to join the group each year and see familiar faces. Co-founder Jim Tobal went out of his way to make everyone feel welcomed. Chef Jeremy Critchfield not only prepared the impressive gourmet spread, but made an appearance every other course or so to mingle and chat about the dishes.

This also bears repeating — a sentiment I had several years back when I covered a previous dinner: “The only lady in attendance, I somehow weaseled my into the ol’ boys club. I thoroughly enjoyed laughing alongside the guys. It was an honor to be invited back.

For nearly 40 years, this down-to-earth group, mostly comprised of retired teachers, has gathered to celebrate the culmination of previous harvest seasons through food. Wild game dinners aren’t a new concept, but this one is unique.

The group honors and remembers the men who’ve passed away over the years, while Tobal prays over the food. For hours, the group chats about anything and everything — the one that got away, the prized one they finally bagged, the memories made — while polishing off platters full of game.”

It’s an evening that I’ve absolutely enjoyed for the past five years, and I look forward to many, many more.